Day 46 - 48 and past half-way!

View from the tent at Loch Ossian Hostel

May 18 2023 – Day 46

Starting from one of Cr282’s favourite campsites – Invernahavon – the single night did not disappoint with clothes dried, devices recharged, and bodies cleansed. A small dog wanted to join the Ch282 team as it left the campsite but despite its engaging small dog important attitude, it was clear that this was not going to happen.

Euan had to negotiate the boggy zig zag route around the locked level crossing at Dalwhinnie – the result of the bureaucratic, unilateral action of Network Rail. This is being challenged in court by Ramblers Scotland with the support of the local community and businesses and most significantly Ben Alder Estate who are frequent users of the crossing. Euan made the 10k cycle to an agreed spot where he would “hide” the cycle so that the commander could retrieve it later. Even the commander could not fail to find the hidden cycle 15m off the track. Euan sent a 6 figure grid reference, a picture of the site, a written description and the customary large stone on the track that the commander would trip over if he failed to recognise all the other signs. (Is the commander really allowed out unchaperoned in a new environment? – The Editor.)

Euan enjoyed the smooth surface of the track alongside Loch Ericht with fewer potholes than a city side street. There are several fine granite lodges along the loch which are part of Ben Alder Estate, now Swiss owned. There is substantial renovation work being done on Ben Alder Lodge itself which will substantially deplete a Zurich bank account. After caching the bike, Euan made a sojourn deep into this estate and beyond. It is worth noting that this estate warmly welcomes walkers. Euan had planned to reach as many Munros that he could before fatigue or more likely darkness overtook him. He eventually reached Loch Ossian Hostel which travellers usually find by using the remote Corrour raiway station. He had by that time bagged the following Munros:

Ben Alder – Hill of the Rock and Water

Beinn Bheoil – Hill of the Mouth

Sgor Gaibhre – Peak of the Goat

Carn Dearg – Red Hill

Total Munros – 135

Decent into Kinlochleven

Sgor Gaibhre – Hill of the Goat – reflects this animal’s importance to early farmers rather than the present-day sheep which were introduced in great numbers in the 19th century. There are no less than 50 Carn Deargs – Red Hills. Surely the fictional COHN (Committee of Hill Names) could have considered - like the three shades of white - names which described different shades of red – crimson, russet, maroon, vermilion, commander red (a bright glowing red inspired by the commander’s face when “peching” up a hill. (peching – Scottish vernacular meaning - breathing heavily.)

Since Euan’s stats are not available at this point, the commander thought that his unusually impressive – impressive not by comparison with Euan of course – will have to do – 10k walk, 10k cycle, Corbett total – 1, 600m of ascent, face – ‘commander red’

The commander recovered with the help of 2 large americanos at the Apiary Café, Dalwhinnie whose carpark Cr282 used for the night.

Stop Press – Unfortunately for the commander, Euan’s stats have just come in. It would be unfair to compare them.

46.5k travelled in 10hrs, 6925ft ascent, 6919ft descent

May 19 2023 - Day 47

Euan spent the night at Loch Ossian Youth Hostel or rather in a tent outside it while able to use the facilities inside it. The hostel was full but Euan was able to dry his boots, cook and eat his meals as well as meet the residents. There were several Dutch enjoying Scotland and its hills. One Dutch person described the Scottish attraction and its high places – my country has a “poverty altitude”. Euan was handily placed to climb his first Munro. His second involved a considerable trek sometimes on rough ground, sometimes on tracks or paths and involved a river crossing in barefeet. The weather was fair and only a little mist at times. It was the second long day in succession and ended with a steep descent into Kinlochleven and the waiting Cr282

Beinn na Lap – Dappled Hill

Sgurr Eilde Mor – Big Peak of the Hind

Sgurr Eilde Mor

Stats – distance - 35k; time – 9hrs 16mins; 5183ft of ascent, 6450 of descent

The Lap in the above refers to the many coloured stones on its summit and also now refers to a defective colour spot in textiles. This mountain has no defects only beauty in a very remote part of Scotland.

The commander thought that he had a solo pitch in the café carpark in Dalwhinnie but was soon flanked by no less that four other vans. Not being anti-social, he still made a note, nevertheless, to park in a corner to avoid having neighbours on both sides. The commander slept well, partly due to the exercise the day before and perhaps to the generous measure of malt whisky – he had Euan’s ration in his absence - during the evening. Euan had jokingly commented that he would mark the bottle with a pen while marking other small cannisters of resources for his pack. He used permanent pen. (Permanent pen? – How did you discover this? The Editor)

Cr282 made the long journey from Dalwhinnie to Kinlochleven via Fort William where a morning coffee was enjoyed at the Rain Café, another Ch282 recommendation. The commander wondered if another blog – Coffee Stops in the Highlands of Scotland – was beckoning. Just in case, readers think that life on the road in Cr282 is all fun and coffee stops, the afternoon was spent, as per contract, cleaning the interior of the van and washing the large surface areas outside with a many small basins of water. Euan noticed the difference. It was a warm evening, and a van window was opened but then we noticed one or two tiny flying insects enter, followed by some more. It has been made very clear by the Editor previously that there is no money for competition prizes, but whatever can these small insects be?

May 20 2023 Day 48

Euan left at 7.45am for what was going to be a big day ahead in several ways. It was going to be a long trek in terms of distance, it would bag no less that nine Munros and if successful it would surpass the halfway mark in total Munros - 282 - by some way. Prior to leaving, Euan and the commander watched some walkers setting off on the West Highland Way wearing nets over their heads. Whatever will some people do to draw attention to themselves they thought. Ok, Ok Cr282 was only too aware of the midge and how the previous evening’s invasion was the start of its season, and the headwear was only one way of countering its bite. Besides the fine mesh net over one’s head, what else could be tried? Euan put on some deet based spray as well as Avon’s Skin So Soft. He also had no less that 3 nets, 2 in the van and one of which he kept packed in his sack. The commander whose skin needed all the help it could get, put on Avon’s product and vanity stopped him using the head net although from experience, the visible clouds of midgies did not rule their suffocating use. Later in the morning when the commander left there did not seem so many midgies and those that there were, did seem so troublesome. The commander was happy as he took a high route with great views above Kinlochleven for a couple of hours, and he thought that he looked younger bathed in Skin So Soft. (Again, product placement is not going to work on this blog – the Editor)

Today’s Munros - The Mamores

Binnein Beag – Small Peak

Binnein Mor – Big Peak

Na Gruagaichean – the Maidens

Am Bodach – the Old Man

Stob Coire a Chairn – Peak of the Corrie of the Cairn

An Gearanach – The Complainer

Sgurr Mhaim – Peak of the Large Rounded Hill

Stob Ban – White Peak

Mullach nan Coirean – Summit of the Corries

Total Munros – 146

37k travelled in over 9hrs

Part of the Mamores

Gaelic Lesson No1 – Beag is small and Mor is big. Repeat and again and again…

Revision Gaelic lesson – Ban is white. This is one shade of white, the others are g… and f….

One unhelpful expert linked Am Bodach – the Old Man with An Gearnanach – The Complainer which the commander did not find informative or amusing. He much preferred the link to another nearby hill – not a Munro – An Garbhanach – the Tough One, much more apposite.

From Kinlochleven, Cr282 travelled to an agreed meeting place a long way up Glen Nevis. Euan arrived later and then quickly decided to cycle down to the nearby Glen Nevis campsite for two nights. This was also a convenient point for Monday’s first Munro – Ben Nevis. “Monday” I hear you say, what happened to Sunday? That day has been designated a day of rest obviously.

Decent into Glen Nevis