Day 23-25
April 25 2023 – Day 23
Wakening up to a very cold morning, -3 on the dial, the campers slept well beside the broch – you do remember what that is? You’re not allowed to look above. The white frost on the grass outside the van prompted Euan to remark if only the van’s heater worked. The commander did think of checking his terms of employment and what rights he might have but at that moment, Euan handed him the customary morning cup of tea and any worries disappeared. The van travelled the short distance to allow Euan to tackle 2 Munros.
Ben Vorlich – Hill of the Bay
Stuc a Chroin – Peak of the Sheepfold
The observant will have noticed that this is the second Munro called Ben Vorlich but still a bona fide Munro in its own right. Euan opted for what he called his dancing shoes – his lightest pair of boots for what he hoped would be a dry day above and below. It proved to be so as his “dancing shoes” would have graced Strictly on their return. A couple of ptarmigan, supremely camouflaged crossed his path or rather Euan crossed theirs since they waited until he had stopped for a photo to make their way past him. A raven also hovered as Euan stopped for some food, thinking that some crumbs might be spilled. There were some human travellers on these hills as was shown by the packed layby at its base on the shores of Loch Earn where Cr282 found a good view point for the track which Euan would exit. There was also some loch traffic – a mixture of kayaks and boats with hopeful anglers. It was also the spot of an ancient gravestone/marker where “7 of the Macdonald clan of Glencoe were killed when attempting to harry Ardvorlich. Anno Domini 1620.” Ardvolich is the name of large estate house/farm at this point. The writer knows nothing else of this incident but a tranquil spot for the burial of dead warriors.
As soon as Euan returned, the stats for the day were noted-
14.9k covered in 4hrs 9mins with 4819ft of ascent and 4931descent, then a bike ride to a point on a single road north of Comrie before exertions of the day were complete. The single roads leading to access points for many Munros proved to be tricky for the commander as he negotiated the large and long van up the twisting roads. The only issue occurred when some other vehicle also needed to use it. The sheer size of the van intimidated most users especially when they also see a kayak on top. The commander almost felt in control in these situations but occasionally Cr282 met something bigger than it. On separate occasions, a face off happened, usually on a bridge or narrow corner as luck would have it, with the following – 2 refuse lorries, a large 4 wheel drive tractor pulling a long trailer, 2 other “normal” tractors with big loads of silage bales on trailers, a large construction lorry with a wide load of roof trusses and a tour bus which definitely should not have been there. Then, Cr282 meekly engaged reverse and wiggled its way back to a suitable passing place. Near Comrie the commander watched from the nearest passing place and as it turned out a safe distance, a heated exchange between the driver of a black Mercedes and a farmer with another large tractor and trailer. After some waving of hands and possibly some expletives – the commander was not close enough to categorically state what Anglo Saxon terms were used – the Mercedes and its driver joined me at the passing place. Strategic retreat is sometimes the best policy. (Cr282 has full comprehensive insurance, the driver in road rage incidents not so much. – The Editor)
The overnight was spent at the Croft campsite nearby which had very good reviews. It had a shop selling many locally grown organic veg, bike hire and shop, bike trails and a café closed on Mon/Tues unfortunately. It didn’t have electric hook ups or good internet access which makes a good campsite for Cr282. It did have superb showers which were used twice in under 12hrs. though. Comrie was attractively close, and it was noticed had a fish and chip shop. For those health-conscious readers concerned about the diets of Cr282 and the huge energy needs of Euan, it should be remembered that this was only the second potential visit to such a takeaway in 4 weeks. Euan and the commander did dally in the Royal Hotel’s big soft sofa for a little too long and found the chip shop closed. It closed at 8.00pm prompt. Scotland’s opening and closing hours often disappoint. The ever-resourceful Euan quickly rustled up a chicken curry with rice back in the camp and Cr282 rested contentedly with full stomachs.
April 26 2023 – Day 24
Around 6.00am, 3 shotgun shots were heard. There were further shots later as Cr282 breakfasted. Presumably the many rabbits and other game around the site were now fewer in number. Suitably fuelled by porridge, blueberries, honey and banana, Euan was ready to tackle the first Munro of the day –
Ben Chonzie – Mossy Hill – pronounced Ben Y Hone
There was a little debate over the efficacy of using a bike to get to the base of this Munro and then use it to travel through to the waiting van at Loch Tay. The potential speed, if the track was suitable was attractive and so at 8.00am, Euan set off along a good track, then cached the bike to climb to the summit which he described as uninspiring. He did see 4 deer, grouse, ptarmigan and 4 hares which had brown fur on top and winter white below. The going got tougher for the bike for a time across some boggy ground and a faint grassy track. It then became wider and with a better surface.
Stats for this leg – 3hrs 9mins, 22.8k covered, 3927ft of ascent and 3559ft descent. Munro no 60. After some refuelling, Euan cycled the next 29k along the undulating narrow road along Loch Tay and then up the steep and twisting road to Ben Lawers National Nature Reserve. This was a tough climb of 634m which raised Euan’s heart rate to 175bpm.Despite these exertions, Euan wanted to tackle another nearby Munro
Meall nan Tarmachan – Hill of the Ptarmigans
As the writer may have commented in an earlier blog about naming hills after elusive animals, Euan saw no ptarmigans on this hill! In light gear and minimal pack, Euan shunned his “dancing shoes” and wore trail running shoes which made his intentions clear to the commander who offered up a large plastic bucket of potential shoes. This proved correct as Euan returned in 1hr 14mins 59secs to be precise. The Munro book estimates 1hr 30 mins for the ascent only. 7k covered with 2227ft of ascent, 2257 descent, average heart rate 173bpm. Munro no 61.
Cr282 was parked on an elevated site looking across Loch Tay to the distant Ben Chonzie, the morning climb. It seemed a very long way away. It was – Euan had walked, cycled and ran 57.5k. A shorter day for tomorrow was planned.
It may be of interest to readers how an evening in a campervan in an isolated and very quiet location is spent. This evening, for example, a regular feature – detailed planning for the next day. For some time, Euan did lots of fiddly things with gear, packs, gadgets and maps asking some questions as he did so. Whereas the commander studied and laboriously set up the van satnav, marked the OS map and the road atlas (Yes, the humble road atlas in this sea of technology was found to be great for the “big picture” given the distances covered). He usually then had time to put on the kettle for a cup of chai tea – an exotic flavour which Euan had introduced to the commander who normally only takes English breakfast. (It has been found that as one travels more widely, one experiences different and at times not unpleasant food and drink – the Editor.) Another regular feature was a downloaded podcast on current affairs, politics or recently Desert Island discs. The podcasts have often to be paused as they inspire debate with views strongly held on both sides. The evening quickly passes with few world affairs resolved but a greater understanding of individual standpoints. Bedtime comes much earlier than home with the commander falling asleep before many pages of the current book are read.
The commander felt obliged by means of this blog to highlight the Broch Café in Strathyre again since he parked next to the closed café on an early morning return journey. He knew it didn’t open till 10.00am but it was a quiet location with lots of parking. A café worker came out at 9.15, saw the Samaritans logo on the van and chatted to the commander about how he volunteered for the organisation and then heard about Challenge 282. He went inside the closed café and a few minutes later, the owner came out and invited the commander in for his daily caffeine hit. When he left, the café remained closed until opening time. A great gesture, much appreciated.
April 27 2023 – Day 25
The forecasted snow for Ben Lawers did not occur at least not at the 450m high car park where Cr282 spent the night. The only other camper or even vehicle that night was an old dormobile where the hardy residents sat out till late in the chill air. The commander did notice some smoke and a sweet smell in the air but he put it down to cooking with “herbs.”
There was a dusting of snow on the higher slopes but all things considered, it was better than expected. A mist on the hills and a persistent drizzle prompted the superb Scottish adjective “dreich” to be given an airing. There was speculation later in the morning when the rain got heavier if dreich still applied. Euan left early at 7.30am in the hope that he might escape the worst of the weather which he largely did. Today’s Munros were –
Meall Corrainaich – Crooked Hill
Meall a Choire Leith – Hilll of the Grey Corrie
He followed a straightforward route, first to the subsidiary top Beinn Ghlas – Grey/Green Hill - and then on to Meall Corrainach with the wind in his back and then to Meall a Choire Leith. He was back in 3hrs 10mins, covering 16.23k in an average speed of 3.2 mph. (a new stat which might not always be available), 3143ft of ascent and 3159ft descent. After a warming cup of coffee and some dry clothes for Euan, CR282 dropped height to spend an admin afternoon in Killin.
Ben Lawers National Nature Reserve was bought in 1950 by the National Trust to conserve its rare alpine plants and their habitat. These are more commonly found in the Artic Circle or high Alpine areas and survive on the higher slopes by adapting to the severe conditions. To cope with these conditions, some plants form tight cushions close to the ground while others have hairs to trap air to keep them warmer. They also must have a much shorter growing season. Evidence has been discovered how people over 9000 yrs ago also attempted to cope with these hills as hunter/gatherers. Much later in the 18th century, sheilings were built for farmers to tend cattle over the Summer months like the Butter Mountain of Arrochar although there is no mention of this being a women’s task here. They also cut peat to cart down for Winter fuel in wicker creels or sleds to their lower crofts. No carbon capture needed in the 18th century.
Admin in the afternoon involved a visit to a favoured café, restocking at a favoured store, the Coop - the only one to be fair, lots of admin in the van interspersed by laundry and showers and finally a meal at a local hotel which satisfied in terms of quality, price and size of portion. Cr282 thinks Killin may be our favourite stop but the competition and the judging is by no means over. Think Eurovision but even longer.
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